Forget everything you know about modern travel. In the 1890s, Elizabeth Robins Pennell and her husband Joe, an illustrator, decided to make a pilgrimage. Their goal wasn't unusual: get from Florence to Rome. Their method was. They chose to walk the 200-plus miles, following the old medieval pilgrim trail known as the Via Francigena.

The Story

This is their shared journal of that trek. Elizabeth writes the words; Joe provides the sketches. There are no reservations or guidebooks. Each day is a question mark. They sleep in rustic inns and monasteries, often unsure of their next meal. They get lost, their feet ache, and they face everything from bad weather to curious locals. The narrative moves with the rhythm of their footsteps—sometimes slow and reflective as they admire a forgotten chapel, sometimes frantic as they search for shelter. It’s a raw, unvarnished look at Italy far from the grand cities, focusing on the dusty roads and the people who live beside them.

Why You Should Read It

What makes this book special is its honesty. Elizabeth doesn't romanticize the hard parts. The fatigue is real, the frustrations are palpable. But so is the joy. You feel her wonder at stumbling upon a perfect fresco in a village church no one visits. The couple’s dynamic is wonderful—partners in a slightly mad, deeply personal quest. It’s a powerful reminder that the best trips change you, not just your location. Their pilgrimage becomes less about religious duty and more about paying attention, about truly seeing a place at three miles per hour.

Final Verdict

This book is a treasure for walkers, dreamers, and anyone who loves real adventure stories. If you enjoy travel writing that feels personal, or if you’ve ever considered a long walk yourself, you’ll find a kindred spirit in Elizabeth. It’s also a fascinating glimpse into a vanished Italy. Just be warned: after reading it, you might start looking at your own two feet and wondering where they could take you.